Hello All,

I knew the second day was going to be the hardest by far when I planned out my trip. The day started going up steep climbs and finally plateud. Most days started that way actually. The walk to Totaranui, the largest touristy area of the part was short and only took about two hours. I walked through the main camping areas there and saw some wonderfully extravangant tent set-ups. Kiwi’s really do love their extravagant tents.

To be honest, I have already forgotten much of the detail as today was a very touristy day. What I can tell you I will. I tramped on some more until I came to the Awaroa inlet crossing. I knew from planning that I was going to be hitting this at the highest of tides. And I did. So I spent the next 45 minutes or so exploring the coast line and watching the water continue to rise. A few minutes later another woman tramper came by and we began talking. She was a local conservationist of some kind and did the walk often. It was then that I was fortunate enough to have the DOC (Department of Convervation) Warden come through on a small boat with an outboard doing his daily cleaning rounds (there was a toilet on that end of the inlet). He was nice enough to give me a ride to the other side. His family was also on board and we had a nice little discussion.

It was then that the fun started for real. I though I was going back to normal tramping trails, so I suited up my boots. After I rounded the next bend however, I found out I was going to be walking through coastal tidal rivers. This was awesome, but tough work in bare feet with my 40+ pound pack. (I had just refilled the water). After the tidal river area it returned to normal for a bit until I came upon another inlet at water that at high tide left little to no beach. So it was back to the water (about knee to mid thigh high) for another 20 minutes or so. I then reached a small beach and found another camper asleep in the sun.

I couldn’t tell if the next little inlet was shallow enough to pass so I took my pack off at the beach and tested it. Sure enough it was and I proceeded back to wading mode. Ohhh and this entire coastline is absolutely gorgeous. There was a small development here, about 15 or so homes and a small grass field airport. There were people in boats and kayaks about and there was an amazing looking sand spit. It was absolutely positively gorgeous. My story just tends to focus on the facts, but I was having a wonderful time.

I proceeded up the trail on a fairly steep climb til I came to the top of the hill overlooking the inlet. (Aside, there used to be a pa, or defensive Maori city there). There was a bench and a Frenchman sitting there. So I had my afternoon snack of beef jerky and shared some with him while we talked for around a half hour. It was funny because we each knew the initial stereotype of each other…. that we shouldn’t get along.

I proceeded on for a couple hours til I reached the next tidal crossing. It wasn’t nearly as bad, just a small tidal river and there were some Americans going the other way so I got a little taste of home. I had forgotten how colorful out clothes are and the colloquialisms that we use. So that was nice. On the way there I had also talked to a couple from CC who were really quite nice. I wish I could describe the trail in more detail, but that is what pictures are for.

I crossed the tidal river and came onto Onopauti beach, one of the largest on the trail. In the bay was Tonga Island, a protected marine reserve, and I knew I was close. Unfortunately by that time I was wicked tired and just wanted to get settled for the night, so I didn’t spend as much time as I would have liked.

I arrived at my campsite and found that most of the spots had already been taken, but there wasn’t really a bad spot. I set up my tent using a piece of wood as one of the corners b/c of the stone left in the qquarry area. I then got my cooking stuff ready and headed down the beach.

Everynight after I finished getting set-up I, before dinner, I headed out for reflection and exploration time. I walked down to the big rocks, explored the marine life and the waves and such and then would eat my predinner snack, read a little, and think about my life. It was a wonderful time as I could watch the seagulls feeding and really center myself.

I then cooked dinner. It felt wierd because all of the other people there were part of a kayak group, and I kinda felt like an outsider. But I got over that quickly and enjoyed myself. I was envious of the amount and type of food they have (sea kayaks can carry up to 150 kilos of gear each!) and they had wine and coke and other goodies. I enjoyed my dinner of mac and cheese and watched the sunset. I got some wonderful pictures and like the night before sat out for a few hours and waited for the stars.

I slept well, but the kayakers were up later than me and made some noise. I had put my food in my sleeping bag because the aforementioned frenchman had warned me about possums. The kayakers were amused by them.

Morning went well, I cooked breakfast and was off well before even all of the kayakers were up. I think a couple of them even shagged the night before. Lol.

I continued my trip southward with a much lighter pack, (I had little water) and enjoyed the tramp. I continued and past another colony of homes at one of the beaches (I can’t remember at this time) and then proceeded towards the falls river trail. This trail was a side trail (3 hours return) off the main path. I dropped my main pack and just took my day pack. I left for that trail at about 2 in the afternoon. This trail was fun, because 1. I had a way lighter pack 2. There was nobody else on the trail 3. I got to see new scenery 4. The trail was a bit rougher. There were lots of tree roots and stream crossings and mud pits,etc. But the waterfalls will worth it as you will see in the picks. Near the end I started to worry a little about hurting myself, bc I was so far way and no one else was anywhere near me.

It was a really cool track. I returned, which seemed a lot quicker bc there was no anticipation. I then picked up my main pack and had to decide whether to wait and do a tidal crossing or take the high tide route. Thinking is was only about 30 mins longer and because I was part of the way there I took the hightide route. Little did I know it was figgin steep and a little out of the way. I struggled up that path and finally arrived at the Hut I was staying in at Anchorage Bay. BTW most of the day after 1:30 PM it looked like it was going to rain but luckally it did not.

This was the only night I stayed in the hut, like a common house, rather than tenting to get the experience. It was loud with the kids and the people were mainly kayakers again. But everything worked out well and I repeated my rituals. I went to bed a little early because I was tired and had to wake up early.

I woke up and started on the trail which was only 12k and not too terrible difficult compared to the previous days. I again treated myself to wonderful beach views and snacks and just enjoyed the whole part. I finished the trail, took a break and began to wait for the bus to be picked up. I had a nice conversation with a local and his fiance over brunch (I had chocolate cake) and then waited some more. I met another couple from MT Vic in Wellington and we talked for most of the bus ride back to Nelson.

In Nelson I hiked the hella far way to my hostel and then caught a random bus (It was a charter for someone else, but I just asked and hopped on, another learning experience). At the Hostel I also showered and shaved because I smelled like bug spray and sweat. It was glorious. I walked through Nelson, ate at Burger King amongst way to many preteens (I guess it is the hang out) tried new Kiwi sodas and called home.

I then went to the Cathedral Hill area again, had a conversation with a nice man for like an hour, I am going to meet him and his wife for dinner Near Wellington, and then went back to the Internet Cafe I had used before to do my business items. I taked with the storeowner there and he told me about the local history of the area and some of the cooler features.

I then walked back to the Hostel after getting some food from New World along a sketch stretch of road. As in I had my knife ready. It was rather dark and there were some homeless men shelters.

I read and relaxed at the hostel and then went to bed.

To Be Continued…..